Відео

Perfect, thanks dude.

Great music

Good, clear instructions. A small point though: according to the Neutrik instructional .pdf, 'Attention: If using a cable with O.D. > 5.50 mm [0.216”] break away this part of the chuck.' Therefore, for cables <5.5 mm , no need to take it off. Also, it can be removed after soldering. Thanks for the vid.

This is not how you are supposed to solder, it's actually completely wrong as many others have pointed out, your solder didn't even adhere to the jack surfaces. You're not supposed to put solder directly on the tip of the soldering iron but instead warm up the metal parts of the jack and the wire itself while pressing the soldering wire against it so the heat is transfered through the parts that you actually want to solder together because they need to be hot. This won't last, if it even works at all.

Very clearly laid out and executed video. Thanks!

thanks a lot,,,,,!!!!👌

The choice of music makes me feel like I'm watching Skateline

what temperature are you typically soldering at?

Thank You! I didn't know what is that bunch of wires (shield))) and where to apply it!

Great video! On the neutrik gold right angle to connectors, I see a tip, a larger shield and then there is a little silver tab a bit further up the casing with a little number 2 next to is. Do you know what that little tab is used for?

Man this connector is realy tight, i even had to drill out the back because my wire wouldn't fit haha

Is this the same for a lanc cable?

Nice video thanks man, God bless

Nice illustration. Question, why remove the "tip or tab end" from the chuck? The Neutrik PDF instructions page doesn't show this step, in fact the chuck is inserted whole right after the boot. I ask, because I like to know the reasons behind doing so or not.

The iron should be heating both the wire and the cup as you feed solder into it. What you are doing is removing the iron as you put solder there. Your solder is forming shapes because of this which means it is becoming dry. Solder should flow like liquid. A tell tale sign of a bad soldering technique is moving the iron tip around like you are trying to paint with solder.

very helpful video

Nice demo on the jacks but the soldering isnt good - applying solder directly onto a hot tip causes solder to flow all over the tip and not onto the surfaces that it needs affixed to - solder flows towards heat or the tip- not away from it.

Hi! I followed all your steps and my cable doesn’t work. Any ideas where I might have gone wrong??

Tin the cups and then flux and wick it back out with braid or extra wire to remove the gold plate. Then tin the cups insert wire and apply heat to the back of the cups to draw tinned solder together. Fill cups to just above a concave no less but still far from a convex. Solder should only touch iron to tin it to create a good thermal transfer. You don't want to drop solder in to it from a hot iron it leads to cold solder joints. The thermal transfer needs to melt the solder with all components tinned in between the cup an wire

I love Neutrik jacks, but this central part where the cable core goes is so freaking small, I cannot get a neat, nice looking solder for the life of me. But I see you have the same issue.

hi sir, which the best.. switchcraft or neutrik silentplug? and best sound.

I didn't realise that the black bit around the core wire was conductive and I always got a weaker signal with my home-made cables or my home-fixed cables. Thank you so much

The issue i'm having is that the colours of mine are blue, pink, cream, and green. Which two do i combine?

Who would have though the inside jacket is conductive i was loosing my mind making cables yesterday. Made like 10 cables all with cross talk 😫

Well after years of touring we find a small piece of heat shrink (3/8") over each of the wires covering the pins is a good precaution. Also pre-tinning the pins and wires is good practice.

Please make more videoz

Some shocking soldering skills my dude

Nice n simple... Thank you!

The cable linked in the description is Mogami 2549; a regular 2-conductor cable. The cable used in the video, however, is Gotham Audio GAC-4/1. It contains four signal wires instead of two because it uses a star quad configuration, which minimizes EMI. This would have been worth mentioning in the video. Mogami also makes a star quad cable (W2534) as do Canare, Belden, Klotz and others.

can you provide link or model no for the jacket striper and wire striper.

Thank you!

I neeeever knew you had to remove that tag! No wonder neutrik connectors always seemed like a big pain in the butt! Why does it not say this on the bag? I always find I have to use my belt grinder to remove a bit of the part that crimps onto the cable since there is just NO way they would ever screw together... removing the tap section will probably make this a lot easier!

Please could you tell me what number corresponds to the plus and minus, thank you

Great demonstration. Just note, he didn't show you pre-tinning the wires, which he did do. Make sure you do that before you solder the wire to the connection.

what solder are you using?

if I have a combination of xlr and 1/4" female in a 4 gang wall plate it has 6 connections on the back how would that be soldered?

The manual says you brake the clip ONLY if the cable diameter(outer jacket) is more than 5.50mm

Any chance you could demonstrate assembly and soldering of W2534 with NP3X-B TRS connectors?

Hello Guys, I need some help! I have a plug neutrik NYS 228, and my cable is mono, and I don't know how to solder it cuz the plug has two planes. Can somebody help me?

What soldering wire you recommend to solder xlr cable

Simple and easy instructions. Thanks for not skipping on installing the housing parts.

Very good video. Thanks!

Thank you!

You need some flux man ....

What mogami wire did you use - what guage?I have 2524 and the thinner 2319.

excellent, fast and easy

A really neat job and the two vise's make it so easy.

Do you use Mogami 2524?